SRINAGAR: For generations, Masaal Tchot, a simple yet flavorful roadside breakfast, has been a cherished part of Kashmir’s culinary landscape. More than just a morning meal, this dish, sold from humble carts across the Valley, provides sustenance for hundreds of families, offers a pathway to self-employment for unemployed youth, and preserves a vital aspect of Kashmir’s social fabric.
Information was available with The Chenab Times that the preparation involves overnight-boiled Kabuli chana (white chickpeas) seasoned with turmeric and salt, served wrapped in thin Lavasa bread, often accompanied by sauces made from onion, carrot, and radish. This traditional offering has transformed from a mere snack into a significant economic activity, with street corners in urban and suburban areas becoming bustling hubs for vendors each morning.
A Journey of Resilience and Tradition
Abdul Majeed Rather, a vendor who began selling Masaal Tchot in 1987, exemplifies the enduring spirit associated with this food. He recalls the challenges of his early days, starting at age 16 with limited resources and no prior cooking experience. The preparation of the Masaal itself, ensuring the chickpeas retain a slight bite without becoming mushy, requires careful attention. Sourcing the thin Lavasa bread from local bakers, who are often overwhelmed with early morning demand, adds another layer to the daily routine.
Vendors like Majeed wake before dawn to prepare the chickpea mixture and then navigate the busy streets to obtain the bread. While the exact historical origins of Masaal Tchot remain unrecorded, a common narrative among vendors suggests it began with a home cook in Srinagar’s old city who later started selling it near a local shrine. Over time, this simple dish evolved into a popular local favourite.
The business demands a precise schedule, with vendors like Majeed aiming to set up their carts by 9 a.m. to ensure optimal earnings. The final preparation of the dish and the arrangement of the cart components must be completed by 8 a.m., a task that requires organization and efficiency.
From Wicker Baskets to Load Carriers
Majeed’s journey reflects a gradual progression in his business. In 1987, he lacked the means to afford a cart and relied on a willow wicker basket, known as a Phout, to carry his ingredients and supplies. This method, while challenging due to the weight, was essential for his livelihood. Over the years, he transitioned from carrying the Phout on his head to using a bicycle and eventually acquired a load carrier following an accident. Regular customers, like Saqib who has patronized Majeed’s cart for years, attribute their continued patronage to the product’s consistent flavor, warmth, and Majeed’s respectful demeanor.
Inside his carrier, Majeed maintains a sense of his journey, keeping photographs from his early days and emphasizing cleanliness with a water purifier and dustbins. The Phout itself, with its wooden construction, highlights a tradition of simplicity in Kashmiri kitchens, where such materials helped retain heat for longer periods.
A Response to Unemployment
The rise of Masaal Tchot vendors is also intrinsically linked to the significant unemployment crisis in Jammu and Kashmir. Official data indicates a substantial number of registered unemployed youth across the union territory. In this economic climate, selling Masaal Tchot has emerged as a viable source of income for many, including educated individuals who have struggled to find formal employment.
Nishad Khan, a postgraduate degree holder in Urdu, found employment challenging despite years of searching. After a brief stint teaching in a private school with insufficient pay, a suggestion from a cousin led him to the Masaal Tchot business. He now runs a cart that provides him with a monthly income exceeding twenty thousand rupees, a figure he considers far more rewarding than remaining idle.
Similarly, Awez Ahmed Khan turned to selling Masaal Tchot after a prolonged illness interrupted his high school education and subsequent job prospects. He observed that many young people in his hometown of Baramulla earn between Rs 20,000 and Rs 25,000 per month from such ventures, often allowing them flexibility for second jobs. The independence and steady income motivated him to start his own cart in Srinagar.
Tariq Chohan, who earns between Rs 15,000 and Rs 20,000 monthly, chose this business over job hunting due to early family responsibilities and the prevailing job scarcity. He expressed gratitude for the opportunity, which allows him to build something of his own, with aspirations to eventually open a restaurant.
Nutritional Value and Future Prospects
Masaal Tchot offers nutritional benefits, with boiled chickpeas serving as a good source of plant-based protein and dietary fiber, aiding digestion. The Lavasa bread, made from wheat, provides complex carbohydrates for energy. However, nutritionists suggest moderation, recommending variants with whole wheat or atta roti to enhance its health profile.
Vendors like Majeed and Nishad maintain the snack’s inherent health benefits, attributing bone health advantages to the Kabuli chana. As the tradition continues, some vendors have expanded their operations, owning multiple carts and offering diverse sauces. Many hope for government support through existing schemes focused on street food. The vendors express a desire for a shift in societal perception, emphasizing that honest earning, regardless of the profession, holds dignity.
The Chenab Times News Desk