Mumbai’s Matunga district is renowned for its vibrant South Indian culinary scene, and two Udupi restaurants, Sharda Bhavan and Amba Bhavan, stand as testaments to this legacy. Both establishments, with histories stretching back approximately 90 years, continue to be gathering places for families, serving a blend of traditional flavors and a sense of enduring community.
A Legacy of Flavors and Families
Sharda Bhavan, located near Matunga Station, has maintained its original charm with its distinctive Art Deco building, marble-topped tables, and wooden chairs. The restaurant, which has been in operation for nine decades, offers a taste of authentic South Indian cuisine. Families, students, and businessmen alike frequent Sharda Bhavan, enjoying dishes such as idli, upma, vada, and dosa while engaging in conversations about daily life.
Amba Bhavan, situated just a short distance away, shares a similar historical connection and has been intertwined with Sharda Bhavan’s story for nearly a century. Its origins trace back to the 1920s when Raghavendra Rao and Shankarnarayan Rao, migrants from Udupi, Karnataka, arrived in Mumbai with little money but a strong desire to work. They found employment and eventually took over an establishment, renaming it Amba Bhavan Coffee House.
These eateries are more than just places to eat; they represent a significant chapter in Mumbai’s gastronomic history. The Udupi restaurant style, which originated in Karnataka, was brought to Mumbai by migrants seeking opportunities. These restaurants became central hubs for the South Indian community, offering not only familiar food but also a sense of belonging.
The Enduring Appeal of Udupi Cuisine
Udupi cuisine itself has a rich history, rooted in the practices of the Udupi Sri Krishna Matha. Known for its strictly vegetarian fare, it emphasizes fresh ingredients and a variety of flavorful dishes. The cuisine was developed to offer diverse food options at the temple, and its spread across India is largely attributed to the migration of people from the Udupi region.
The success of Udupi restaurants in Mumbai, particularly in areas like Matunga, is a story of entrepreneurial spirit and culinary tradition. Many of these establishments are family-run, with ownership passing down through generations, ensuring the continuation of authentic recipes and service styles. The Shettys and Kamats are among the surnames associated with the ownership of these long-standing eateries.
While Udupi restaurants have adapted to changing times by diversifying menus, the core offerings of idli, vada, and dosa remain central. The distinct preparation of sambar and chutneys at places like Amba Bhavan, which incorporate specific local touches, further distinguishes them. For instance, Amba Bhavan is noted for its use of methi seeds in dosa batter and a sambar with a balanced hint of jaggery.
A Taste of Home in the Metropolis
For many Mumbaikars, these Udupi restaurants evoke a sense of nostalgia and comfort, reminiscent of home-cooked meals. The unpretentious ambiance, coupled with the consistent quality of food, contributes to their enduring popularity. Despite the proliferation of modern eateries and global cuisines in Mumbai, Sharda Bhavan and Amba Bhavan continue to attract patrons who appreciate their rich history, authentic flavors, and the intergenerational connection they foster.
The experience at these restaurants is characterized by efficiency and warmth. Servers, often representing the second or third generation of their families, provide prompt service. Despite the occasional long wait times, especially at popular spots like Ram Ashray (which is located nearby), the promise of delicious, homestyle South Indian food makes the wait worthwhile for many.
The story of Sharda Bhavan and Amba Bhavan is not just about food; it’s about the preservation of cultural heritage, the evolution of culinary traditions, and the establishment of community anchors in a bustling metropolis. They stand as vibrant examples of how age-old eateries can continue to thrive by staying true to their roots while serving the needs of contemporary diners.
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The Chenab Times News Desk
